| Beefing up | | Print | |
'All You Care to Eat' read the restaurant's banner as I walked through Soho in 1991. Why did it look so wrong? After all, I'd grown up in America, land of the gorge-fest known as the 'All You Can Eat' buffet. Ah, but those few words of difference make a world of difference: 'All You Care to Eat' implies that one will sup until sated, daintily wipe one's mouth and smile beatifically. 'All You Can Eat' is a challenge that you rise to by stuffing your gob and waddling back for seconds, thirds and fourths until you burst – or burst into tears from the agony of acid reflux.
Acid reflux is now classed as a disease, but for many folks it's simply the logical consequence of devouring a huge slab of steak, a baked potato dripping with butter and sour cream, and don't forget the starters – a plate of cheesy nachos perhaps? – all followed by The Ultimate Ice Cream Experience (a case of 'The Devil Eats Cold Stone Creamery'?).
Gluttony is one of the 21st century's biggest problems (no pun intended). The world is now home to more overweight people than hungry ones, US professor Barry Popkin told the International Association of Agricultural Economists in 2006 (1billion, compared with 800m). Should we celebrate that fact? After all, obesity should be easier to crack than starvation: if the chubbies just cut back on the Big Macs, wouldn't there be plenty to go round? Apparently not if meat is on the menu.
The Devil Eats Meat (?)
Animal agriculture gobbles up resources (food, water and land) and leads to pollution, greenhouse gas emissions and deforestation. See my recent 'Website of the Week' (23 June 2008) where I selected PETA [People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals] and its new campaign to highlight the ethical and ecological issues surrounding meat consumption. PETA is trying to encourage everyone to take the 30-day Veg Pledge to give up meat (or at least to cut back with Meat-Free Mondays). This can be a tricky challenge for Americans when dining out, as on most menus even salads are heaped high with chicken, ham or bacon bits.
Fat is no longer a feminist issue – it's an ecological issue. And let's get real: morbid obesity is no cake walk. In addition to the consequences to the planet from over-consumption of food, there are the personal repercussions: decreased mobility, increased threat of heart attack and cancer and even depression.
Even if you're not morbidly obese, you might (like me) be carrying an extra stone around. Perhaps thinking about our weight in ecological terms will be that extra incentive we need to resist the biccie box. In fact, in addition to taking the Veg Pledge, I promise to undertake a 30-day biscuit ban (starting after the one I just had). It's not going to save the planet – or even my figure – but hey, you've got to start somewhere. Care to join me? In the meantime if your bod isn't exactly beach-tastic, try a floaty cover-up – double points if it's second-hand, fairtrade or organic – and steer clear of the sausage rolls.
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'All You Care to Eat' read the restaurant's banner as I walked through Soho in 1991. Why did it look so wrong? After all, I'd grown up in America, land of the gorge-fest known as the 'All You Can Eat' buffet. 




